Choosing between the different types of mirrors is easier once you know what each type is actually for. In my workshop I build framed mirrors from solid timber, so I spend a lot of time helping clients decide not just on a finish, but on the type itself: framed or frameless, bevelled or flat, wall-mounted or full-length. This guide walks through the main types of mirrors, what each one does best, and how to match them to your interior, so you can narrow the field before you think about colours and finishes.
Every mirror I make is produced to order. I mill the frame profile from solid wood, join the corners (usually with biscuit joints), fit the glass and finish the frame by hand, from painted lacquer to genuine gold leaf. That means almost every type described below can be made to your exact dimensions as a mirror in a frame, made to measure.
A framed mirror is the default for a reason. The frame protects the edge of the glass, gives the mirror visual weight on the wall, and lets you tune the character of the piece to the room: a slim black profile reads modern, a wide gilded one reads classic, a distressed white one reads vintage. When clients are unsure which type they need, a framed mirror is nearly always the safe answer, because the frame does the stylistic work.
From the bench side, the frame also solves practical problems. It hides the fixings, supports large panels, and keeps the edges of the glass, where the silvering is most vulnerable, away from knocks and moisture. I use SGG Miralite Pure Diamant glass for its clean, neutral reflection, and the frame is what keeps that glass safe for decades.
A frameless mirror is a panel of mirror glass without a surround: the edges are ground and polished instead, and the mirror hangs on concealed fixings or is bonded to the wall. It suits minimalist and contemporary interiors where you want reflection without an added object: the mirror reads as a plane of light rather than a piece of furniture. Frameless panels also work well fitted wall-to-wall, for example above a long basin counter. I look at the trade-offs in more detail in my article on frameless mirrors, minimalism and space.
When picking between framed and frameless mirrors, consider four things: the room's style, moisture, edge protection and hanging. A frame adds character and shields the glass edge, which matters in bathrooms and busy hallways. A frameless panel keeps walls visually quiet but leaves the edge exposed and depends entirely on the wall fixing. In humid rooms a well-finished frame also shields the glass edges, where moisture attacks the silvering first, which is why I treat frames for bathroom mirrors with particular care at the finishing stage.
A bevelled mirror has a ground, angled border around the glass, typically 10 to 30 mm wide, which catches and splits the light at the edge. It is a subtle effect that adds depth without adding ornament, so it suits both classic and glamour interiors. Bevelling belongs to the glass, not the frame, so it can be combined with nearly any frame type I make. I cover widths and pairings in my guide to the bevelled mirror in a frame.
If you need to see yourself head to toe, you need a full-length type: either a tall wall-mounted mirror or a freestanding one that leans or stands on the floor. Wall-mounted versions save space and suit narrow hallways; freestanding versions can move with you and double as a decorative object in a bedroom or dressing area. I compare the two honestly, including stability and safe fixing, in freestanding vs wall-mounted hallway mirrors, and you can see made-to-measure examples in the hallway mirrors category. If you want a tall mirror built exactly to your wall, my hallway mirror made to measure is the usual starting point.
An ornate mirror is one whose frame carries rich detail: profiled mouldings, carved or built-up ornament, gilding or patinated colour. It is chosen as much for the frame as for the reflection, and it usually becomes the focal point of the wall it hangs on. Ornate types suit classic, traditional and eclectic interiors, above a fireplace, a console table or a chest of drawers.
If you have been searching for where to buy decorative mirrors with ornate frames, the honest answer is that mass-produced ornament and workshop-made ornament are different products. In my workshop the profile is milled from solid timber, the ground is built up by hand and the finish is applied layer by layer, so the detail is crisp rather than moulded plastic. A good example is my mirror in a black frame with Flemish corners, where the corners are built and finished by hand. You can browse finished examples in the decorative mirrors collection, and quieter traditional designs among the classic mirrors. Because each piece is made to order, the ornament, colour and size are agreed individually, based on photographs of my previous work.
Gilded mirrors deserve their own category because the finish changes everything about how the piece behaves in a room. I gild with genuine gold leaf, from pale 6 ct white gold to deep 23.75 ct yellow, over a traditional chalk gesso ground, using the water gilding technique. Real leaf reflects light with a warmth that paint cannot imitate, and in the evening a gilded frame picks up lamplight and candlelight beautifully. Gold works in classic rooms, but a slim gilded profile is just as at home in a modern interior, and high-contrast black and gold pairings anchor the glamour mirrors style. For a softer take on that look, a round glamour mirror pairs the gilded frame with a gentler outline.
Once you know the type, matching it to the room is mostly a question of frame finish, shape and scale. As a rule of thumb: minimalist interiors take frameless panels or slim framed mirrors; classic interiors take ornate, bevelled or gilded types; glamour interiors take bold frames with metallic accents; vintage schemes take distressed painted frames, like my white shabby chic mirror. I go room by room through those pairings in mirrors for different interior styles, and if the outline matters more than the type, start with mirror shapes and interior design. For the room itself, the living room mirrors category shows how larger formats behave over a sofa or fireplace.
Whichever type you land on, made to measure solves the problem that catches most people: standard sizes often do not quite fit the wall you actually have. I build each mirror individually in 4 to 8 weeks for international orders, and the finish is agreed from photographs of previous work before I start.
Consider the room's style, moisture levels, edge protection and how the mirror will be fixed. Frames add character and protect the glass edge; frameless panels look minimal but leave the edge exposed. In bathrooms and hallways, a well-finished frame is usually the more durable choice.
An ornate mirror is a mirror whose frame carries rich decorative detail, such as profiled mouldings, carving, gilding or patinated finishes. It is designed to be a focal point and suits classic, traditional and eclectic interiors, typically above a fireplace or console table.
A large, simply framed or frameless mirror placed opposite or at a right angle to a window works best, because it reflects daylight deep into the room. In narrow spaces, a tall vertical mirror stretches the wall visually while taking up very little floor area.
If you already know roughly what you need, or want help deciding between two types, write to me with the wall dimensions and a photo of the room. I will suggest the type, size and finish that will suit it, and build the mirror for you from scratch.