If you have just received your first quote for professional picture framing, you may have been surprised by the price. At a glance, it looks like „just a frame and a sheet of glass". In reality, the final cost reflects a whole system of materials, technologies and craftsmanship — all working toward one goal: to protect the artwork and keep it intact for decades. A custom picture frame is not cosmetic. It is an investment in the longevity of the work.
Below is a breakdown of every element that contributes to the cost — from the moulding itself, through glass, mat board and spacers, to the framer's hands.
A custom-made frame brings together eight elements working at once:
Individually, many of these are minor expenses. Together, they explain the difference between a ready-made frame from a chain store and a hand-built custom frame.
Every framing job starts with the moulding: the strip of wood that gets mitre-cut at the corners and assembled into a finished frame. The choice of moulding drives most of the cost — and most of the visual character of the result.
Even a small frame consumes several running metres of moulding, and the price grows with three variables: the width and depth of the profile, the quality of the wood, and the way the frame is finished.
The most common solution: a custom picture frame built from solid wood and matched to the work down to the millimetre. Profile choice ranges from slim, minimal lines to wide, sculpted edges. Deep frames suit canvases on stretcher bars and oil paintings; slim profiles work well with prints, photographs and works on paper.
An alternative path: antique or vintage frames. The process involves sourcing the right frame, adjusting it to size, cleaning, restoring and often adapting it to the specific work. These frames rarely fit perfectly off the shelf — adjustment requires experience and precision.
What they offer cannot be reproduced in new production: real patina, depth of material, history. That is why a good antique frame is rarely cheap.
The premium segment: frames gilded with real gold leaf. A hand-made frame gilded with real gold leaf is built using traditional water gilding on a bole base. Gold leaves measuring roughly 80×80 mm are applied one by one — for narrower mouldings, the leaf is cut on a gilder's cushion with a specialised knife. It is precise hand work that cannot be automated.
Several leaf karats are available in this technique: 6K and 12K (white gold — cool, almost chrome-like), 22-karat moon gold (lighter, cooler, subtly silvery, distinctly paler than yellow gold), and 23-karat yellow gold (the warmest, deepest tone — a glow that does not fade with the years).
Artworks survived for centuries without modern protective glass. UV-filtering options only appeared in the late 20th century. Today the choice of glass depends on the type of work and its value.
The most affordable option. Protects the work from dust and accidental damage. Suitable for posters, low-value prints and works that can be replaced or reproduced.
Slows pigment and paper fading. Recommended for originals, watercolours, prints and colour photographs — anywhere prolonged light exposure could damage the work over time.
The most advanced option: anti-reflective glass virtually disappears in the frame, eliminates reflections and at the same time provides very high UV protection. Museum glass is the standard for valuable, signed and irreplaceable works. The cost is noticeably higher, but in practice it is an investment in protecting the artwork for decades.
Three elements the client rarely sees — and which decide what state the work will be in when it reaches the next generation.
The mat around the artwork has three roles: it separates the work from the glass, creates an air gap, and improves the visual reading of the piece. A professional mat is acid-free — it does not degrade the paper and stabilises the conditions around the work. The cost grows with the number of layers (single, double, with additional decorative profile) and the material (standard, linen, silk).
Spacers create a physical separation between the glass and the artwork. Without that gap you risk moisture condensation, the work sticking to the glass, and surface transfer — irreversible damage. The customer rarely notices spacers, but they are fundamental to the longevity of the framing.
Behind the artwork sits a backing board: HDF or MDF for larger formats. Cheap framing relies on plain cardboard that contains acids — over time these migrate into the paper and cause yellowing and degradation. Professional framing uses archival, acid-free materials that stabilise the work and don't react chemically with paper.
Every framing job also includes acid-free mounting tapes, reversible attachment systems, pressure components, dust seals on the back, and hanging hardware sized to the weight. Individually small items that, taken together, contribute a noticeable share of the final cost.
The most important element, however, is human work. Professional picture framing means precise measuring, mitre cutting, fitting, assembly and final inspection of every edge. It is not mass production — it is a hand-built process built on attention to detail and longevity.
And that is the real difference between a ready-made frame from a chain store and a custom job. A chain store sells a fixed-size product fitted „more or less". A custom frame is fitted to the millimetre, with materials chosen for the specific work in front of you.
I make custom picture frames by hand, in solid wood — from slim minimal profiles to wide hand-gilded frames using traditional water gilding on bole. Every piece is built for a specific work.
The cost depends on several variables — the size of the work, the moulding profile, the frame finish, and the standard of glass and mat board. As a starting point, here are typical price brackets for the frame itself — without the glass and mat board, which are priced separately.
Frame-only prices (without glass and mat board) from my workshop:
On top of the frame comes the complete framing system: glass (standard, conservation with UV filter, or museum anti-reflective — meaningful jumps between levels), mat board (single, double, or with a decorative profile, in acid-free cotton, linen or silk), spacers, archival backing and mounting hardware.
I quote a precise figure for the complete framing once I have measured the work and we have agreed on the materials. There is no point in estimating blind — every element can shift the total significantly.
Every made-to-measure picture frame from my workshop is built around a specific work. These are the main areas where you can personalise the result.
The frame is cut to the exact dimensions of your artwork — whether it's an oil painting on a stretcher, a watercolour, a photograph, a poster or a printed canvas. I also build non-standard formats: round, oval and arched frames.
A full range of profiles is available, from slim, smooth lines to wide, sculpted edges. The width of the moulding is fixed for a given model — it is not adjusted during the order. The choice of profile decides whether the frame steps back and lets the work breathe, or builds a strong decorative presence around it.
I work with a curated range of over a hundred high-pigment, craft-grade paints. Colour can be matched to your interior, to the tone of the artwork, or chosen for contrast. The finish always covers the front, the panel and the sides of the frame.
The frame can be hand-gilded with real gold leaf: 22-karat moon gold (cooler, lighter, subtly silvery) or 23-karat yellow gold (warmer, deepest glow that does not fade with the years). The traditional technique uses thin leaves laid on a bole base — the colour of the bole (most often red, ochre or black) shows subtly through the gold and reveals itself under gentle wear, giving the frame depth and authentic patina.
You can choose between standard glass, conservation glass with UV filter, and museum (anti-reflective) glass. The mat board is matched to the palette of the work — single or double, in different colours and materials (acid-free cotton, linen, silk).
Details are agreed by email or phone before the order is placed. I can prepare a visualisation of the frame in a chosen colour and profile, and advise on the right glass and mat for the specific work. Lead time is set individually — hand-gilded frames need more days in the workshop than frames with a painted finish.
Professional picture framing is not the cost of a frame — it is a system of protection in which every element matters. If you want your work to reach the next generations in the same condition, it is worth investing in framing built around it.